I successfully cut/disassembled cameras to remove the infrared filter, to make viewing IR lasers and heat radiation possible - now I want to block out all visible radiation to make a pure IR cam. Recommendations? Or is it a waste of time?
Our take
Our Take – Turning a DIY IR Hack into a Curated Visual Tool
The Reddit post by No_Leopard_3860 is more than a clever hack; it is a reminder that the line between artistic exploration and functional optics is wonderfully porous. By stripping the standard hot‑mirror from a cheap digital camera and exposing the sensor to raw infrared (IR) light, the author captured a stove that is invisible to the naked eye, revealing a hidden heatscape in vivid detail. This experiment resonates with the same curiosity that drives readers of our “Building a client gallery & delivery portal for a photography studio would love brutal feedback from actual photographers before I ship it” article, where the desire to see beyond the ordinary fuels both technical and creative breakthroughs. It also mirrors the aesthetic ambition of the “Canon RF 14mm f1.4 L Review: What The YouTubers Didn’t Tell You” piece, which celebrates lenses that translate vision into immersive storytelling. The question now is whether the next step—blocking every wavelength below ~700 nm to achieve a “pure” IR camera—is feasible, affordable, and artistically valuable.
From a technical standpoint, creating a truly monochrome IR sensor is less about removing the existing filter and more about adding a precise band‑pass element that transmits only the desired wavelengths. Commercial options do exist, but they occupy a spectrum of price and performance. Low‑cost “IR‑only” filters, often sold for night‑vision or surveillance, typically block visible light by using a deep‑red glass or polymer that cuts off around 650 nm. While these can be mounted in front of a lens, they rarely achieve the clean separation needed for scientific work because residual visible light still bleeds through, especially under strong illumination. A more refined solution is a thin-film interference filter, which can be tuned to pass a narrow band (e.g., 800–900 nm) while rejecting everything else. Such filters are available from optics suppliers for under $30 per piece, but they require careful handling and precise alignment to avoid vignetting. For creators who value a curated aesthetic rather than laboratory precision, a stacked approach—combining a cheap deep‑red filter with a higher‑grade interference filter—offers an immersive, slightly stylized IR look without breaking the bank.
The real artistic payoff lies in the way IR rendering reshapes perception. Infrared wavelengths reveal textures, moisture patterns, and heat signatures that are invisible to the human eye, turning everyday scenes into abstract tapestries of contrast and tone. When the sensor is freed from visible light, the camera becomes a painter’s brush that renders the world in a palette of black, white, and subtle gray, emphasizing form over color. This aligns perfectly with the brand’s aspiration to blend fitness, fashion, and luxury into a single visual language: imagine a runway captured in pure IR, where the sheen of fabric becomes a luminous gradient, or a yoga studio where breath and heat become visible brushstrokes. The authenticity of the image comes not from technical perfection but from the genuine curiosity that drives the maker to peel back layers of reality.
Nevertheless, the pursuit is not without pitfalls. Removing the built‑in hot‑mirror from a smartphone sensor is a high‑risk maneuver; the tiny flex cables and adhesive layers can be damaged, leading to permanent loss of focus or even short‑circuiting. Even when the filter is successfully removed, the sensor’s native color filter array (CFA) remains optimized for visible light, which can introduce uneven sensitivity across the IR spectrum. Some hobbyists mitigate this by swapping the sensor’s CFA with a monochrome version—a costly and invasive modification that veers into the realm of professional equipment. For most creators, the sweet spot is to start with an inexpensive, easily replaceable webcam or a legacy point‑and‑shoot, apply a quality band‑pass filter, and embrace the slight imperfections as part of the aesthetic narrative.
Looking ahead, the convergence of affordable optics and open‑source firmware promises a new wave of “IR‑first” cameras that could become a staple in both artistic and health‑focused storytelling. Imagine a curated fitness app that visualizes muscle heat during a workout, or a fashion shoot where the glow of a runway is mapped in infrared to highlight texture in a way no visible‑light lens can. As the technology matures, the question worth watching is: will creators adopt pure IR imaging as a mainstream visual language, or will it remain a niche tool for the curious few? The answer may lie in how seamlessly we can blend the vibrancy of IR with the aspirational elegance that defines our modern aesthetic.
Because the IR lasers look indistinct to normal visible lasers I shot a photo of an otherwise invisible stove: https://ibb.co/h1Cd7BXC
It obviously works very well up to at least 1000-1500 nm - so I thought I could block out everything below ~700nm to get a pure IR camera - is that feasible?
Are there commercial cheap options available to filter everything up to ~700nm?
For a short tutorial:
The IR filter is a red-pink glass pane, typically located directly above the digital sensor.
Old cheap digital cameras were the easiest, just use a razor blade and remove it. Full functionality.
Smartphones and similar stuff are kinda tricky: you might damage (=shorting) the sensor just by trying to crack it open, catastrophically damaging it if you're not careful.
Also the autofocus electronics have to be cut to access the filter/sensor, so if you're not re-soldering it you won't have any ability to focus it anymore.
Always make sure to clean the sensor before reassembly, especially the smartphone filters can't be removed without cracking, and the shards will show up if not cleaned up (see my linked example).
Use super glue to reattach smartphone/webcams. Re-solder the connections if you need full functionality. (Either way it's a cool Experiment that leads to funky photography).
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